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a quick intro to the process of perfumery

Perfumery is the art and science of creating fragrances and perfumes. Perfumers, also known as fragrance chemists, use a variety of chemical compounds to create unique and complex scents.


The main chemical compounds used in perfumery are essential oils, which are concentrated plant extracts that contain the natural fragrances of the plant. Essential oils are obtained through a variety of methods, including distillation, expression, and solvent extraction. 


Perfumers may also use synthetic chemical compounds, which are man-made fragrances that are designed to mimic the scent of natural substances.


To create a fragrance, perfumers must first determine the desired scent profile, which is the combination of scents that make up the overall fragrance. They may consider the intended use of the fragrance (e.g. for a perfume, candle, or home fragrance), the target market (e.g. men or women), and the desired scent notes (e.g. fresh, floral, woody, or spicy).


Next, perfumers select the appropriate chemical compounds to achieve the desired scent profile. They may use a variety of natural and synthetic compounds, including essential oils, aromatic compounds, and fragrance ingredients. The selection of chemical compounds is known as the fragrance formula.


Perfumers must then blend the selected chemical compounds together in precise proportions to create the desired scent. This process requires a deep understanding of the chemistry of the various compounds and how they interact with each other. For example, certain compounds may enhance or alter the scent of other compounds when they are combined. 


Perfumers must also consider the stability of the fragrance formula over time and ensure that the scent does not change or fade with age.


Once the fragrance formula is complete, it is typically tested and evaluated by a panel of trained evaluators to ensure that it meets the desired scent profile. If the fragrance is intended for a specific product, it may also be tested for compatibility with the product and any potential adverse effects on the skin or other materials. 


Sources:

"Perfumery: The Chemistry of Fragrance" by the American Chemical Society (https://www.acs.org/content/acs/en/education/resources/highschool/chemmatters/past-issues/archive-2013-2014/perfumery.html)
"A Day in the Life of a Perfumer" by International Fragrance Association (https://www.ifraorg.org/en/science/a-day-in-the-life-of-a-perfumer)
 

so what makes things smells so good?

Monoterpenes

Monoterpenes are a class of organic compounds that are composed of two isoprene units and are found in a wide variety of plants. They are known for their strong, pleasant odors and are often used in perfumes and fragrances. Monoterpenes are also known for their antimicrobial and antioxidant properties and are used in a variety of health and wellness products.


Some examples of monoterpenes include:

  • Limonene: This monoterpene is found in the peel of citrus fruits and is known for its refreshing, citrus scent.
     
  • Pinene: This monoterpene is found in pine trees and is known for its woody, earthy scent.
     
  • Citronellol: This monoterpene alcohol is found in rose oil and is known for its sweet, floral scent.
     
  • Geraniol: This monoterpene alcohol is found in rose and lavender oils and is known for its sweet, floral scent.
     
  • Terpinen-4-ol: This monoterpene is found in tea tree oil and is known for its refreshing, floral scent.
     

Sesquiterpenes

Sesquiterpenes are a class of organic compounds that are composed of three isoprene units and are found in a wide variety of plants. They are known for their strong, pleasant odors and are often used in perfumes and fragrances. Sesquiterpenes are also known for their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties and are used in a variety of health and wellness products.


Some examples of sesquiterpenes include:

  • Caryophyllene: This sesquiterpene is found in black pepper and is known for its spicy, woody scent.
     
  • Humulene: This sesquiterpene is found in hops and is known for its woody, earthy scent.
     
  • Santalol: This sesquiterpene is found in sandalwood oil and is known for its woody, earthy scent.
     
  • Cedrol: This sesquiterpene alcohol is found in cedarwood and sandalwood oils and is known for its woody, earthy scent.
     
  • Bisabolol: This sesquiterpene is found in chamomile and is known for its sweet, floral scent.
     

Esters

An ester is a chemical compound that is formed from the reaction of an alcohol with a carboxylic acid. Esters are known for their sweet, fruity scents and are often used in perfumes and fragrances. They are also used as flavorings in a variety of foods and beverages.


Some examples of esters include:

  • Ethyl acetate: This ester is known for its sweet, fruity scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Methyl acetate: This ester is known for its sweet, fruity scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Linalyl acetate: This ester is found in lavender oil and is known for its sweet, floral scent.
     
  • Benzyl acetate: This ester is found in jasmine oil and is known for its sweet, floral scent.
     
  • Lavandulyl acetate: This ester is found in lavender oil and is known for its sweet, floral scent.
     

Rose

There are several chemical components found in rose oil, but the five most prominent ones are:

  • Citronellol: This is a monoterpene alcohol that is known for its sweet, floral scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Geraniol: This is another monoterpene alcohol that is found in rose oil and is known for its sweet, floral scent. It is often used as a natural alternative to synthetic fragrances.
     
  • Nerol: This is a monoterpene that is also found in rose oil and is known for its sweet, floral scent. It is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Phenylethanol: This is an aromatic alcohol that is found in rose oil and is known for its sweet, floral scent. It is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Rose oxide: This is an aromatic compound that is found in rose oil and is known for its sweet, floral scent. It is often used in perfumes and fragrances.


It's worth noting that the exact composition of rose oil can vary depending on the specific type of rose and the method of extraction used to obtain the oil.


Lavender

  • Linalool: This is a monoterpene alcohol that is known for its sweet, floral scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Linalyl acetate: This is an ester that is found in lavender oil and is known for its sweet, floral scent. It is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Caryophyllene: This is a sesquiterpene that is found in lavender oil and is known for its spicy, woody scent. It is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Terpinen-4-ol: This is a monoterpene that is found in lavender oil and is known for its refreshing, floral scent. It is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Lavandulyl acetate: This is an ester that is found in lavender oil and is known for its sweet, floral scent. It is often used in perfumes and fragrances.


It's worth noting that the exact composition of lavender oil can vary depending on the specific type of lavender and the method of extraction used to obtain the oil.
 

Jasmine

  • Benzyl acetate: This is an ester that is known for its sweet, floral scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Benzyl alcohol: This is an aromatic alcohol that is known for its sweet, floral scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Indole: This is a heterocyclic organic compound that is known for its sweet, floral scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Jasmine oxide: This is an aromatic compound that is known for its sweet, floral scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Methyl jasmonate: This is a terpene that is known for its sweet, floral scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     

Sandalwood

  • Santalol: This is a sesquiterpene that is known for its woody, earthy scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Santalene: This is a sesquiterpene that is known for its woody, earthy scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Santalal: This is a sesquiterpene that is known for its woody, earthy scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Cedrol: This is a sesquiterpene alcohol that is known for its woody, earthy scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Epi-santalol: This is a sesquiterpene that is known for its woody, earthy scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.

Vanilla

Vanilla is a type of plant whose bean is used to produce a sweet, fragrant oil. The main chemical component of vanilla oil is vanillin, which is an aromatic compound that is responsible for the characteristic sweet, floral scent of vanilla. 


Other chemical components found in vanilla oil include:

  • Ethyl vanillin: This is a compound that is structurally similar to vanillin and is also responsible for the sweet, floral scent of vanilla.
     
  • Vanillic acid: This is an organic acid that is found in vanilla and is known for its sweet, floral scent.
     
  • Vanillyl alcohol: This is an aromatic alcohol that is found in vanilla and is known for its sweet, floral scent.
     
  • Heliotropin: This is an aromatic compound that is found in vanilla and is known for its sweet, floral scent.
     
  • P-hydroxybenzaldehyde: This is an aromatic compound that is found in vanilla and is known for its sweet, floral scent.


It's worth noting that the exact composition of vanilla oil can vary depending on the specific type of vanilla and the method of extraction used to obtain the oil.
 

Cedarwood

Ok, and as an added bonus, let's also look at cedarwood, which contains: 


  • Cedrol: This is a sesquiterpene alcohol that is known for its woody, earthy scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • alpha-Cedrene: This is a sesquiterpene that is known for its woody, earthy scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Beta-cedrene: This is a sesquiterpene that is known for its woody, earthy scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Widdrol: This is a sesquiterpene alcohol that is known for its woody, earthy scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
     
  • Thujopsene: This is a sesquiterpene that is known for its woody, earthy scent and is often used in perfumes and fragrances.
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