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Beyond “For Him” and “For Her”: The Real Structure Behind Unisex Fragrance

Beyond “For Him” and “For Her”: The Real Structure Behind Unisex Fragrance

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Updated on

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Time to read 4 min

A City Isn’t Masculine or Feminine

Stand at the corner of Fifth and 57th.

Steel climbs into the sky.
A florist rinses peonies into the street.
Taxi exhaust curls past a woman in cashmere and a man in worn leather.

Concrete.
Petals.
Smoke.
Sunlight.

No one calls Manhattan masculine.
No one calls it feminine.

It works because its materials are integrated.

Fragrance should work the same way.

Yet for decades, perfume has been divided into binaries that have more to do with department store shelving than chemistry.

If you’ve ever loved a scent but hesitated because of the label — “for him,” “for her” — what you were reacting to wasn’t molecular reality.

It was narrative.


The Real Villain: Gender as a Marketing Shortcut

Modern fragrance language simplifies choice into signals:

  • Floral = feminine

  • Woody = masculine

  • Sweet = soft

  • Smoky = strong

But these are aesthetic codes — not structural truths.

Botanical molecules do not organize themselves around identity.

Rose contains geraniol and citronellol — molecules that also appear in geranium and citrus.
Cedarwood shares terpenes with herbs described as “fresh.”
Lavender contains linalool, a compound found in both traditionally “masculine” and “feminine” compositions.

Nature overlaps constantly.

Marketing draws fences.


What Actually Makes a Fragrance Feel Wearable by Anyone

“Unisex” is often misunderstood as neutral.

In reality, the most compelling fragrances are not neutral.
They are balanced.

Three structural principles create that balance:

  1. Molecular overlap

  2. Volatility architecture

  3. Skin interaction


1. Molecular Overlap: Chemistry Ignores Categories

Natural materials are chemically complex — often containing hundreds of volatile organic compounds.

Many of the molecules marketed as masculine or feminine appear across botanical families:

  • Linalool (lavender, rosewood, basil, coriander)

  • Limonene (citrus, certain resins)

  • Geraniol (rose, geranium, palmarosa)

  • Pinene (pine, rosemary, herbs)

The same molecule can feel floral in one concentration and woody in another.

When you understand that, the binary begins to dissolve.

Just as downtown and uptown share the same grid — but feel different because of proportion and context.


2. Volatility Architecture: Structure Determines Impression

What people often interpret as “masculine” tends to involve:

  • Greater base concentration

  • Lower perceived sweetness

  • Stronger projection

What is coded “feminine” often involves:

  • Brighter top volatility

  • Higher ester content

  • Softer diffusion

These are structural decisions.

They relate to molecular weight, vapor pressure, and evaporation curve — not gender.

When top, heart, and base notes are proportioned intelligently, the fragrance reads integrated rather than coded.

Integration feels natural on anyone because it feels finished.


3. Skin Chemistry: The Private Variable

Natural perfume does not sit passively on the skin.

Botanical compounds interact with:

  • Skin pH (typically 4.5–5.5)

  • Sebum composition

  • Body temperature

  • Microbiome activity

Scientific research demonstrates variability in odor receptor genes across individuals, meaning perception itself differs from person to person.

A woody structure may bloom floral on one wearer.
A rose-forward composition may dry down mineral and cool on another.

This dynamic interaction makes rigid labeling inefficient.

The body completes the formula.


Historically, Fragrance Wasn’t Divided

Ancient Egyptian, Roman, and early European perfumery did not separate scent by gender.

Resins, florals, woods, and spices were worn broadly.

The heavy segmentation into “pour homme” and “pour femme” intensified in the 20th century as mass-market advertising expanded.

The division was commercially effective.
It was never chemically necessary.

Today, as fragrance literacy increases, we are returning to preference over prescription.


What Balanced Natural Fragrance Looks Like

A composition that transcends gender typically includes:

  • Lift (citrus, herbs, transparent florals)

  • Structure (rose, iris, spice, green notes)

  • Foundation (woods, resins, roots)

None of these are inherently masculine or feminine.

It is the ratio — the skyline — that determines perception.

Rose over vetiver reads differently than rose over vanilla.
Cedar beneath iris feels different than cedar beneath sugar.

Construction shapes experience.


Sustainability and Restraint

Natural perfumers working outside gender constructs often design outside trend cycles as well.

Balanced botanical compositions tend to emphasize:

  • Renewable plant materials

  • Responsible harvest cycles

  • Concentrations designed for intimacy rather than aggression

When fragrance moves away from coded exaggeration, it often becomes more restrained — and more sustainable.

Quiet authority requires less spectacle.


Conclusion: Integration Over Identity

A city works because its elements coexist.

Stone beside glass.
Green beside steel.
Old beside new.

The most compelling fragrances function the same way.

They are not neutral.
They are integrated.

They balance brightness with shadow.
Lift with depth.
Floral with wood.

When a fragrance feels complete across volatility phases — when nothing feels exaggerated for effect — it naturally transcends gender.

Understanding this changes how you evaluate perfume:

  • You stop asking who it’s for.

  • You start asking how it’s built.

  • You assess structure instead of stereotype.

That shift refines taste.

And taste has never needed a label.


Explore With Intention

If you’re ready to evaluate fragrance through balance and architecture — not categories — explore the collection.

Or join our newsletter for deeper ingredient breakdowns and structural frameworks that refine how you choose.

Because scent belongs to the wearer.
Not the marketing shelf.


References

  • Keller, A., & Vosshall, L. B. (2016). Olfactory perception of chemically diverse molecules. BMC Neuroscience, 17(1), 55.

  • Mainland, J. D., et al. (2014). Functional variability in the human odorant receptor repertoire. Nature Neuroscience, 17(1), 114–120.

  • Surburg, H., & Panten, J. (2016). Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials: Preparation, Properties and Uses (6th ed.). Wiley-VCH.

  • Sell, C. (2019). The Chemistry of Fragrances: From Perfumer to Consumer (2nd ed.). Royal Society of Chemistry.

  • Başer, K. H. C., & Buchbauer, G. (2015). Handbook of Essential Oils: Science, Technology, and Applications (2nd ed.). CRC Press.

Scientific references are provided for molecular and perceptual context. This article does not claim medical or therapeutic outcomes from wearing fragrance.