
Bergamot & Cedarwood Perfume: The Molecular Harmony Behind This Classic Pairing
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The world of perfumery represents a fascinating intersection of art and science, where the ephemeral nature of aroma meets the precision of molecular chemistry. Among the countless ingredient combinations that have stood the test of time, the pairing of bergamot and cedarwood stands as a testament to the elegant harmony that can exist between seemingly opposite elements.
The art of natural perfume creation relies heavily on understanding the molecular properties of essential oils. This understanding allows perfumers to create compositions that not only smell beautiful but also evolve on the skin in a deliberate, harmonious progression. When we examine the bergamot-cedarwood pairing through both historical and scientific lenses, we discover a relationship that exemplifies the principles of contrast and complementarity that underpin great perfumery.
In this exploration, we’ll delve into the molecular structures that make these ingredients so compatible, trace their historical significance across civilizations, and examine their contemporary applications in both natural perfume and niche fragrance creation. By understanding the science behind this classic pairing, we gain deeper appreciation for the sophisticated alchemy that occurs when bergamot’s bright, volatile nature meets cedarwood’s deep, enduring presence.
Bergamot essential oil, derived from the peel of Citrus bergamia, possesses a complex molecular structure that contributes to its distinctive aromatic profile. Cold-pressed from the fruit’s peel to preserve its volatile compounds, bergamot oil contains a symphony of molecules that create its characteristic bright, uplifting aroma.
The primary components of bergamot oil include:
Component |
Percentage Range |
Olfactory Characteristics |
---|---|---|
Limonene |
32-47% |
Fresh, citrusy, bright |
Linalool |
3-15% |
Floral, sweet, woody |
Linalyl acetate |
~27% |
Sweet, fruity, floral |
These compounds belong to the terpene and terpenoid families, which are characterized by their volatility—they evaporate quickly when exposed to air. This volatility explains why bergamot typically functions as a top note in perfumery, providing the initial impression but fading relatively quickly.
Research published in the Journal of Essential Oil Research has documented bergamot’s complex composition, identifying over 100 different compounds in varying concentrations. This molecular diversity contributes to bergamot’s multifaceted aroma profile, which combines citrus brightness with subtle floral and spicy facets.
In contrast to bergamot’s volatile brilliance, cedarwood oil presents a rich molecular profile dominated by sesquiterpenes—larger, heavier molecules that evaporate much more slowly:
Component |
Percentage |
Characteristic |
---|---|---|
δ-cadinene |
36.3% |
Woody, dry |
(Z)-β-farnesene |
13.8% |
Sweet, woody |
Viridiflorol |
7.3% |
Balsamic |
These compounds contribute to cedarwood’s distinctive warm, balsamic aroma and its excellent fixative properties. The higher molecular weight of these compounds means they evaporate much more slowly than bergamot’s components, allowing cedarwood to function as a base note that provides longevity and depth to a fragrance composition.
Studies published in Phytochemistry have shown that the sesquiterpenes in cedarwood oil have molecular weights approximately 1.5 times greater than the monoterpenes in bergamot oil. This significant difference in molecular weight is a key factor in their complementary relationship in perfumery.
When bergamot and cedarwood are combined in a natural perfume, a sophisticated molecular interaction occurs that enhances the performance of both ingredients. This interaction can be understood through several key mechanisms:
Complementary Volatility Rates : The rapid evaporation of bergamot’s lighter molecules creates an immediate impression, while cedarwood’s heavier compounds provide a lasting foundation that continues to develop over time.
Structural Stability : Research published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science has demonstrated that certain sesquiterpenes in cedarwood can actually slow the evaporation rate of more volatile compounds through intermolecular forces, effectively “anchoring” some of bergamot’s molecules and extending their presence.
Temporal Evolution : The different evaporation rates create a dynamic scent that evolves over time, transitioning from bergamot’s bright opening to a harmonious blend, and finally to cedarwood’s warm, woody drydown.
Olfactory Complementarity : The molecular structures of these oils activate different olfactory receptors, creating a more complex and satisfying sensory experience than either oil alone could provide.
This molecular dance between bergamot and cedarwood creates what perfumers call “lift and anchor”—the citrus provides lift and brilliance, while the wood anchors the composition and provides longevity. This principle is fundamental to the creation of balanced, dynamic fragrances.
The use of bergamot and cedarwood in aromatic applications has deep historical roots that span continents and civilizations. Archaeological evidence suggests that cedarwood was among the first aromatic materials used by humans, with its application dating back over 4,000 years.
In ancient Egypt, cedarwood was considered sacred, used in religious ceremonies and embalming practices. Hieroglyphic records document its value not only for its aroma but also for its preservative properties. The Egyptians recognized that cedarwood oil could help preserve organic materials—a property we now understand is related to its sesquiterpene content, which has natural antimicrobial properties.
While bergamot came into documented use much later than cedarwood, citrus oils were highly valued in ancient Chinese, Greek, and Roman cultures. The specific cultivation of bergamot is believed to have originated in Southeast Asia, though it found its most significant early applications in Italy, particularly in Calabria, where it continues to be cultivated today.
The term “perfume” itself derives from the Latin “per fumum,” meaning “through smoke,” reflecting the ancient practice of burning aromatic materials to release their scent. This practice evolved over centuries into the liquid perfumes we know today.
During the Renaissance, advances in distillation techniques revolutionized perfumery, allowing for the extraction of essential oils from plant materials. This period saw the first documented use of bergamot in European perfumery, particularly in Italy and France.
The niche fragrance market has embraced the bergamot-cedarwood combination for its complexity and depth. Historical records from the 17th century mention bergamot as a key ingredient in the original Eau de Cologne, created by Johann Maria Farina in 1709. This formulation, which paired bergamot with other citrus notes and aromatic herbs, became wildly popular throughout Europe and established bergamot as a staple in Western perfumery.
Cedarwood’s journey through perfume history is equally significant. The cedar forests of Lebanon were famous in biblical times, and the wood was highly prized for both construction and aromatic purposes. By the 18th century, cedarwood had become a standard ingredient in European perfumery, valued for its ability to extend the life of more volatile components.
The cultural significance of these materials extends beyond their aromatic properties:
In Japanese culture, hinoki (Japanese cedar) has been used in the construction of temples and sacred spaces for centuries, valued for both its structural properties and its calming aroma.
In North African and Middle Eastern traditions, cedarwood was burned as incense during important ceremonies and was believed to purify spaces and ward off negative energies.
In Italian folk medicine, bergamot was used to treat fever and intestinal worms, and was later incorporated into remedies for anxiety and depression—applications that modern aromatherapy research has actually validated.
The historical pairing of citrus and wood notes in perfumery can be traced through numerous cultural traditions, from ancient Chinese incense formulations to medieval European pomanders. This enduring combination speaks to a cross-cultural recognition of the harmonious relationship between these contrasting elements.
When formulating a natural perfume, the balance between top, middle, and base notes is crucial for a harmonious composition. The traditional structure of a perfume follows what is known as the “olfactory pyramid,” a concept that helps explain how fragrances evolve on the skin over time:
Top Notes (Head Notes)
These are the first impressions—bright, volatile molecules that greet your nose immediately upon application but typically fade within 15-30 minutes. Bergamot, with its high concentration of lightweight monoterpenes, is a classic top note.
Heart Notes (Middle Notes)
The character of the fragrance emerges as the heart notes develop, usually lasting 2-4 hours. These often include floral and spice elements that bridge the gap between the fleeting top notes and enduring base.
Base Notes (Foundation Notes)
These are the foundation of the fragrance, emerging fully after several hours and potentially lasting 6-12 hours or more. Cedarwood, with its heavy sesquiterpenes, is a quintessential base note that provides longevity and depth.
Research published in the Journal of Sensory Studies has demonstrated that this three-tiered structure creates a more satisfying olfactory experience than single-note fragrances, as it provides complexity and evolution over time.
One of the greatest challenges in creating an all-natural perfume is achieving satisfactory longevity without synthetic fixatives. An all-natural perfume relies exclusively on botanical ingredients without synthetic additives. This is where the strategic pairing of ingredients like bergamot and cedarwood becomes crucial.
The longevity of an all-natural perfume depends on the strategic use of fixative ingredients like cedarwood. Scientific analysis published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science has identified several mechanisms by which natural fixatives like cedarwood extend fragrance longevity:
Evaporation Rate Reduction : The larger molecules in cedarwood oil create a less volatile environment that slows the evaporation of smaller, more volatile molecules.
Binding Effects : Certain compounds in cedarwood can temporarily bind with more volatile molecules through weak hydrogen bonding, effectively “holding onto” them for longer periods.
Skin Interaction : The lipophilic (oil-loving) nature of cedarwood oil helps it bind to the natural oils in skin, creating a reservoir effect that releases scent gradually.
Oxidative Stability : Some components in cedarwood have antioxidant properties that can protect more vulnerable molecules from degradation through oxidation.
Creating an all-natural perfume requires deep knowledge of how different essential oils interact over time. Gas chromatography studies have shown that when bergamot and cedarwood are combined, the resulting scent profile maintains detectable levels of bergamot compounds for significantly longer than when bergamot is used alone or combined with other top notes.
Natural perfume oils provide a more concentrated and longer-lasting scent experience than alcohol-based formulations. While traditional eau de parfum typically contains 15-20% aromatic compounds in an alcohol base, natural perfume oils can contain 20-30% aromatic compounds in a carrier oil base.
The application of natural perfume oils to pulse points allows for a gradual release of aroma throughout the day. This application method takes advantage of body heat to activate the aromatic compounds, creating a personal scent bubble that evolves naturally with your body chemistry.
Bergamot and cedarwood natural perfume oils complement each other through their different evaporation rates. Research published in Flavour and Fragrance Journal has demonstrated that oil-based perfumes generally have 2-3 times the longevity of alcohol-based formulations with identical aromatic compounds, making them particularly suitable for natural perfumery where longevity can be challenging.
The appeal of a niche fragrance lies in its unique composition and the story behind its creation. Unlike mass-market perfumes designed to appeal to the broadest possible audience, niche fragrances often explore more distinctive, unusual, or complex aromatic territories.
Creating a distinctive niche fragrance often involves exploring traditional ingredient pairings through a modern scientific lens. The bergamot-cedarwood combination exemplifies this approach, taking a historically established pairing and reinterpreting it through contemporary understanding of molecular interactions.
The niche fragrance market has grown significantly in the past decade, with independent perfumers creating distinctive scents that often challenge conventional approaches. This sector has been particularly influential in reviving interest in natural materials and traditional perfumery techniques, albeit often with a modern twist.
Niche perfumers have approached the bergamot-cedarwood pairing in various innovative ways:
Concentration Variations : Some niche houses offer the same fragrance in different concentrations, allowing the bergamot-cedarwood relationship to express differently at each level.
Terroir Exploration : Just as wine reflects its growing conditions, bergamot from different regions (Calabria vs. Ivory Coast) and different cedar species (Atlas, Virginia, Texas) create subtly different effects when paired.
Extraction Method Variations : Cold-pressed bergamot paired with CO2-extracted cedarwood creates a different effect than steam-distilled versions of both materials.
Fractional Distillation : Some artisanal perfumers use specific fractions of these essential oils to highlight particular facets of their aroma profiles.
Research published in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry has demonstrated that bergamot oils from different regions can vary in their limonene-to-linalyl acetate ratios by as much as 15%, creating noticeably different effects when paired with cedarwood.
Professional perfumers approach the bergamot-cedarwood combination with careful attention to proportion and supporting notes. The ratio between these ingredients significantly impacts the final character of the fragrance:
Bergamot-Forward Compositions (70:30)
When bergamot dominates, the fragrance presents as primarily citrus with a subtle woody foundation. This approach creates bright, uplifting scents that gradually transition to a softer woody base over several hours.
Balanced Compositions (50:50)
Equal proportions create a seamless blend where neither ingredient dominates. This balance often yields the most complex and evolving fragrances, with a harmonious transition from citrus brightness to woody depth.
Cedarwood-Forward Compositions (30:70)
When cedarwood leads, the fragrance presents as primarily woody with a bright citrus accent. This approach creates more grounding, long-lasting fragrances with a sophisticated hint of brightness.
The art of creating a natural perfume requires deep understanding of how different essential oils interact. Perfumers must consider not only the initial impression but how the scent will evolve over hours on the skin.
While bergamot and cedarwood create a beautiful foundation, the addition of supporting notes can enhance different facets of this pairing:
Enhancing Bergamot’s Brightness
Neroli: Amplifies the floral aspects of bergamot
Petitgrain: Extends the citrus character with a greener edge
Lemon: Intensifies the fresh, zesty quality
Enhancing Cedarwood’s Depth
Vetiver: Adds earthy, rooty dimensions
Sandalwood: Contributes creamy, milky aspects
Frankincense: Introduces resinous, spiritual qualities
Bridging Notes
Lavender: Creates a seamless transition between top and base
Cardamom: Adds complexity while complementing both citrus and wood
Amyris: Provides a smooth, balsamic connection
The best natural perfumes balance artistry with science to create complex, evolving scent experiences. This careful orchestration of notes creates a fragrance that unfolds like a story on the skin.
Natural perfume oils provide a more concentrated and longer-lasting scent experience than alcohol-based formulations. This format is particularly beneficial for the bergamot-cedarwood combination for several reasons:
Reduced Volatility
The oil base evaporates much more slowly than alcohol, allowing the bergamot notes to remain detectable for longer periods.
Skin Affinity
Oils have greater affinity with the skin’s natural sebum, creating a more intimate scent experience that evolves with your body chemistry.
Concentrated Application
The concentrated nature of oils allows for precise application to pulse points, creating a personal scent bubble rather than a projecting cloud.
The application of natural perfume oils to pulse points allows for a gradual release of aroma throughout the day. For bergamot-cedarwood combinations, strategic application to areas with hair (nape of neck, wrists) can further extend longevity as the porous hair fibers absorb and slowly release the scent.
To maximize the performance of bergamot-cedarwood fragrances, consider these professional layering techniques:
Base Layer Foundation
Begin with unscented body oil or lotion to create a receptive base that will hold fragrance molecules longer.
Strategic Layering
Apply a cedarwood-dominant product first (like a cedar-based body wash or lotion), followed by the balanced bergamot-cedarwood fragrance. This creates depth and extends the woody base notes.
Pulse Point Mapping
Rather than applying to all pulse points at once, map different points for different times of day. For example, apply to wrists and neck in the morning, then to elbows and behind knees for afternoon refreshing.
Bergamot and cedarwood natural perfume oils complement each other through their different evaporation rates. This complementary relationship creates a dynamic scent that evolves throughout the day rather than remaining static.
An all natural perfume relies exclusively on botanical ingredients without synthetic additives. This purist approach presents both challenges and opportunities when working with bergamot and cedarwood:
Challenges:
Limited longevity compared to synthetic alternatives
Batch variation based on harvest conditions
Higher cost of quality raw materials
Potential allergens present in natural materials
Opportunities:
Complex, evolving scent profiles
Therapeutic benefits beyond mere fragrance
Sustainable and renewable ingredient sources
Unique interaction with individual skin chemistry
Creating an all natural perfume requires deep knowledge of how different essential oils interact over time. The bergamot-cedarwood pairing exemplifies how thoughtful formulation can overcome the inherent limitations of natural materials.
A natural organic perfume ensures that all ingredients are grown without synthetic pesticides. This additional level of purity is particularly relevant for citrus oils like bergamot, which may otherwise contain pesticide residues in conventional farming.
The certification process for a natural organic perfume is rigorous and comprehensive. Organizations like COSMOS, USDA Organic, and Ecocert require documentation of:
Organic growing practices
Sustainable harvesting methods
Chemical-free processing
Contamination prevention measures
Complete supply chain verification
When selecting a natural organic perfume, look for transparent information about ingredient sourcing. Reputable brands will provide details about the origin of their bergamot and cedarwood oils, including the specific regions and farming practices.
Both bergamot and cedarwood face sustainability challenges that ethical perfumers must address:
Bergamot Sustainability Issues:
Limited growing regions (primarily Calabria, Italy)
Climate change impacts on citrus cultivation
Intensive water requirements
Potential for soil depletion
Cedarwood Sustainability Issues:
Overharvesting of wild populations
Slow growth rate of cedar trees
Habitat destruction
Species endangerment (particularly Atlas cedar)
Sustainable solutions being implemented include:
Controlled Harvesting Programs
Implementing quotas and regeneration periods for cedarwood harvesting to ensure population stability.
Alternative Species Exploration
Investigating sustainable alternatives like Virginian cedarwood (Juniperus virginiana), which is more abundant and faster-growing than traditional Atlas cedar.
Waste Reduction Practices
Utilizing byproducts from the juice industry for bergamot oil production, reducing waste and maximizing resource efficiency.
Regenerative Agriculture
Implementing farming practices that rebuild soil health and increase biodiversity in bergamot orchards.
The growing demand for non-toxic natural perfume has driven innovation in natural fixative ingredients. This consumer preference has encouraged research into sustainable alternatives to traditional animal-derived fixatives and endangered plant species.
A natural perfume for men often features woody, herbaceous, and spicy notes like cedar, vetiver, and black pepper. The bergamot-cedarwood combination serves as an excellent foundation for masculine fragrances due to its balance of freshness and strength.
Traditional masculine interpretations typically emphasize:
Higher proportions of cedarwood relative to bergamot
Addition of complementary woods like sandalwood or vetiver
Incorporation of spicy elements like black pepper or cardamom
Minimal floral components
The market for natural perfume for men has grown as more consumers seek alternatives to synthetic fragrances. This growth reflects broader trends toward natural products and a more nuanced approach to gendered scent preferences.
Contemporary perfumery increasingly moves beyond strict gender categorizations, with many niche fragrance creators offering unisex interpretations of the bergamot-cedarwood pairing:
Balanced Proportions
Equal emphasis on citrus brightness and woody depth creates compositions that appeal across gender preferences.
Unexpected Complements
Addition of traditionally feminine notes like rose or jasmine alongside traditionally masculine notes creates complexity that transcends gender categorization.
Focus on Quality Over Gender
Emphasis on ingredient quality and artistic expression rather than gendered marketing allows for more personal fragrance choices.
Cedarwood is a cornerstone ingredient in many natural perfume for men formulations due to its masculine character. However, its versatility allows it to function equally well in feminine and unisex compositions when skillfully balanced with brighter notes like bergamot.
When evaluating the best natural perfumes, consider both the initial impression and how they develop over time. Quality indicators include:
Complexity and Evolution
Superior natural perfumes evolve on the skin, revealing different facets over time rather than remaining linear.
Ingredient Transparency
The best brands provide detailed information about their sourcing, extraction methods, and ingredient quality.
Balanced Composition
Expertly crafted fragrances maintain harmony between top, middle, and base notes throughout their development.
Longevity Relative to Category
While natural perfumes generally have shorter longevity than synthetic ones, quality natural compositions maximize performance within these natural constraints.
Many of the best natural perfumes incorporate traditional ingredient pairings like bergamot and cedarwood. These time-tested combinations demonstrate the perfumer’s understanding of classical perfumery principles.
The natural perfume market spans from small artisanal creators to larger commercial brands:
Artisanal Advantages:
Small-batch production allowing for higher-quality ingredients
Direct relationships with growers and distillers
Greater creative freedom and experimentation
Personalized customer experience
Commercial Advantages:
More consistent supply chains
Greater resources for quality testing
Broader distribution and accessibility
Often more affordable price points
The niche fragrance market has grown significantly as consumers seek more unique and personal scent experiences. This growth has created space for both approaches to thrive, giving consumers more options at different price points.
A non-toxic natural perfume avoids potentially harmful synthetic musks and phthalates. However, natural doesn’t automatically mean non-reactive for all individuals. Common natural allergens include:
Limonene (found in bergamot and many citrus oils)
Linalool (present in bergamot and many florals)
Eugenol (found in clove and some spice notes)
Geraniol (present in many floral absolutes)
Consumers with sensitivities often find that a non-toxic natural perfume causes fewer adverse reactions. This is particularly true when the perfume uses properly processed ingredients, such as bergaptene-free bergamot oil that has had the photosensitizing compounds removed.
The fragrance industry operates under various regulatory frameworks that govern safety:
International Fragrance Association (IFRA)
Establishes usage guidelines for both natural and synthetic ingredients based on safety testing.
EU Cosmetics Regulation
Requires labeling of 26 potential allergens, many of which occur naturally in essential oils.
Organic Certification Bodies
Organizations like COSMOS and USDA Organic verify both ingredient purity and sustainable production methods.
The growing demand for non-toxic natural perfume has driven innovation in natural fixative ingredients. This consumer preference has encouraged research into alternatives to traditional animal-derived fixatives and potentially sensitizing synthetic compounds.
The future of bergamot and cedarwood in natural perfumery looks promising due to ongoing innovations:
Advanced Extraction Technologies
Techniques like supercritical CO2 extraction and molecular distillation allow for more precise isolation of desired aromatic compounds while leaving behind potential irritants.
Microencapsulation
New technologies allow for the encapsulation of volatile citrus compounds like those in bergamot, extending their presence in the fragrance.
Natural Preservative Systems
Development of plant-based antioxidant systems helps prevent oxidation and degradation of sensitive natural materials.
Biotechnology Applications
Fermentation and enzymatic processes can create nature-identical molecules that provide consistency without synthetic chemicals.
Unlike mass-market options, a niche fragrance often explores more distinctive or unusual aromatic territories. This experimental approach drives innovation in how traditional materials like bergamot and cedarwood are used and combined.
Several key trends are influencing the future direction of natural perfumery:
Transparency Demand
Consumers increasingly expect detailed information about ingredient sourcing, processing methods, and sustainability practices.
Personalization
Growing interest in custom and bespoke fragrances that are tailored to individual preferences and skin chemistry.
Wellness Integration
Blurring lines between fragrance and aromatherapy, with increased focus on the mood-enhancing and therapeutic properties of essential oils.
Sustainability Commitment
Expectation that brands will address environmental impacts throughout their supply chain, from farming practices to packaging.
Many perfume enthusiasts prefer a niche fragrance for its artistic expression and higher-quality ingredients. This consumer segment values the story and craftsmanship behind a fragrance as much as the scent itself, driving continued innovation in natural perfumery.
When selecting a natural perfume, look for those with a higher concentration of essential oils for better longevity. For bergamot-cedarwood combinations, consider these factors:
Seasonal Appropriateness
Bergamot-forward blends often work better in spring and summer, while cedarwood-dominant versions excel in fall and winter.
Personal Chemistry
Test fragrances on your skin rather than paper strips, as your unique skin chemistry will interact differently with the oils.
Evolution Over Time
Evaluate the fragrance at different stages—immediately after application, after one hour, and after several hours—to understand its complete journey.
Concentration and Format
Consider whether an oil-based or alcohol-based format better suits your preferences and needs.
A quality natural perfume will evolve differently on each person’s skin due to individual body chemistry. This unique interaction is part of the appeal of natural fragrances, creating a truly personal scent experience.
To get the most from bergamot-cedarwood fragrances:
Moisturize First
Apply unscented moisturizer before fragrance to give the oils something to bind with, extending longevity.
Strategic Placement
Apply to pulse points (wrists, neck, behind ears) but also consider less obvious locations like the back of the knees, inside elbows, and even in hair for longer-lasting scent presence.
Layering Products
Use matching body products (shower gel, lotion) from the same fragrance line to create a foundation that extends the life of the final fragrance application.
Reapplication Strategy
Rather than heavy initial application, use lighter applications with strategic refreshing throughout the day to maintain the bright bergamot notes.
When selecting a natural organic perfume, look for transparent information about ingredient sourcing. This ensures you’re getting genuine, high-quality bergamot and cedarwood oils that will perform as expected.
The pairing of bergamot and cedarwood in natural perfumery represents a perfect harmony of opposites—bright meets deep, fleeting meets enduring, citrus meets wood. This combination has stood the test of time not merely because of tradition but because it works on a fundamental molecular level.
The art of creating a natural perfume requires deep understanding of how different essential oils interact. The bergamot-cedarwood pairing demonstrates how thoughtful formulation can leverage the inherent properties of natural materials to create complex, evolving scent experiences.
As the niche fragrance market continues to grow, we can expect to see even more innovative interpretations of this classic combination. Whether in traditional compositions or avant-garde creations, the molecular dance between bergamot’s bright volatility and cedarwood’s grounding presence will continue to captivate perfumers and fragrance enthusiasts alike.
The best natural perfumes balance artistry with science to create complex, evolving scent experiences. In the case of bergamot and cedarwood, this balance is not just aesthetic but molecular—a harmony written in the language of terpenes and sesquiterpenes, creating a symphony that unfolds uniquely on each wearer’s skin.
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